Glossary of Terms

The generally dry portion of the beach between the berm crest and the vegetation line that is submerged only during very high sea levels and eroded only during moderate to strong wave events.

Water carried by a vessel to improve its stability.

A topographic map of the bed of the ocean, with depths indicated by contours (isobaths) drawn at regular intervals.

The measurement of water depths in oceans, seas, and lakes; also information derived from such measurements .

An accumulation of loose sediment (usually sand or gravel) along the coast.

The section of the beach normally exposed to the action of the wave uprush. Also referred to as the foreshore of a beach.

A volumetric loss of sand from the active beach.

A decrease in the useable beach width caused by erosion.

The technique of placing sand fill along the shoreline to widen the beach.

A cross-sectional plot of a shore-normal topographic and geomorphic beach survey, usually in comparison to other survey dates to illustrate seasonal and longer-term changes in beach volume.

The horizontal dimension of the beach measured normal to the shoreline and landward of the high water mark line on coasts.

A permanently fixed point of known elevation. A primary bench mark is one close to a tide station to which the tide staff and tidal datum originally are referenced.

A geomorphological feature usually located at mid-beach and characterized by a sharp break in slope, separating the flatter backshore from the seaward-sloping foreshore.

Rubble mound structure with horizontal berm of armor stones at about sea level, which is allowed to be (re)shaped by the waves.

(Also called biodiversity) - The diversity of life, often divided into three levels: genetic (diversity within species), species (diversity among species), and ecosystem (diversity among ecosystems).

The mass of living matter per unit of habitat (e.g. volume of water or area of bottom). Also referred to as standing crop or standing stock.

a depression on the land surface caused by wind erosion.

Biochemical (or Biological) Oxygen Demand - high figures suggest pollution or eutrophication.

A wave breaking on a shore or over a REEF, etc. Breakers may be classified into four types:+ COLLAPSING--breaking occurs over lower half of wave, with minimal air pocket and usually no splash-up. Bubbles and foam present.+ PLUNGING--crest curls over air pocket; breaking is usually with a crash. Smooth splash-up usually follows.+ SPILLING--bubbles and turbulent water spill down front face of wave. The upper 25 percent of the front face may become vertical before breaking. Breaking generally occurs over quite a distance.+ SURGING--wave peaks up, but bottom rushes forward from under wave, and wave slides up beach face with little or no bubble production. Water surface remains almost plane except where ripples may be produced on the beach face during runback.

The still-water depth at the point where a wave breaks. Also called breaking depth.

The zone within which waves approaching the coastline commence breaking, typically in water depths of between 5 and 10 meters for ocean coasts, but sometimes in shallower water.

A man-made structure protecting a shore area, harbor, anchorage, or basin from waves.

A parcel or strip of land that is designed and designated to permanently remain vegetated in an undisturbed and natural condition to protect an adjacent aquatic or wetland site from upland impacts, to provide habitat for wildlife and to afford limited public access.

The county required seaward limit of major construction for a coastal property. Building setbacks in Barbados are set at 30m (100 feet) from the high water mark for beaches and 10m (30 feet) for cliffs measured from the landward point of under cut.