Wave Rose

Diagram showing the long-term distribution of wave height and direction.

Glossary of Terms

A contour line connecting points of equal water depths on a chart.

The science of deducing the physical dimensions of objects from measurements on images (usually photographs) of the objects.

Pier

A structure, ususally of open construction, extending out into the water from the shore, to serve as a landing place, recreational facility, etc., rather than to afford coastal protection or affect the movement of water. A term sometimes improperly applied to jetties.

Sediment Transport

The main agencies by which sedimentary materials are moved are: gravity (gravity transport); running water (rivers and streams); ice (glaciers); wind; the sea (currents and longshore drift). Running water and wind are the most widespread transporting agents. In both cases, three mechanisms operate, although the particle size of the transported material involved is very different, owing to the differences in density and viscosity of air and water. The three processes are: rolling or traction, in which the particle moves along the bed but is too heavy to be lifted from it; saltation; and suspension, in which particles remain permanently above the bed, sustained there by the turbulent flow of the air or water.

Dumping

Any deliberate disposal at sea of wastes or other matter, or any deliberate disposal of vessels or other man-made structures .

Littoral

Of or pertaining to a shore, especially of the sea. Often used as a general term for the coastal zone influenced by wave action, or, more specifically, the shore zone between the high and low water marks.

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Wave Rose