Meso-tidal

Tidal range between 2m and 4m.

Glossary of Terms

A sudden increase in the amount of marine algae (seaweed) often caused by high levels of phosphates, nitrates, and other nutrients in the nearshore area.

Littoral Budget

The sediment budget of the beach consisting of sources and sinks.

Breaker

A wave breaking on a shore or over a REEF, etc. Breakers may be classified into four types:

COLLAPSING--breaking occurs over lower half of wave, with minimal air pocket and usually no splash-up. Bubbles and foam present.
PLUNGING--crest curls over air pocket; breaking is usually with a crash. Smooth splash-up usually follows.
SPILLING--bubbles and turbulent water spill down front face of wave. The upper 25 percent of the front face may become vertical before breaking. Breaking generally occurs over quite a distance.
SURGING--wave peaks up, but bottom rushes forward from under wave, and wave slides up beach face with little or no bubble production. Water surface remains almost plane except where ripples may be produced on the beach face during runback.

Gravel

Unconsolidated natural accumulation of rounded rock fragments coarser than sand but finer than pebbles (2-4 mm diameter).

Coastal Strip

A zone directly adjacent to the waterline, where only coast related activities take place. Usually this is a strip of some 100 m wide. In this strip, coastal defense activities take place. In this strip often there may be restrictions to land use.

Shingle

Loosely and commonly, any beach material coarser than ordinary gravel, especially any having flat or flattish pebbles.

Strictly and accurately, beach material of smooth, well-rounded pebbles that are not roughly the same size. The spaces betwen pebbles are not filled with finer materials.

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Meso-tidal