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Glossary of Terms

A strong surface current flowing seaward from the shore. It usually appears as a visible band of agitated water and is the return movement of water piled up on the shore by incoming waves and winds. With the seaward movement concentrated in a limited band its velocity is somewhat accumulated. A rip consists of three parts: the feeder currents flowing parallel to the shore inside the breakers; the neck, there the feeder currents converge and flow through the breakers in a narrow band or "rip"; and the head of rip, where the current widens and slackens outside of the breaker line. A rip current is often miscalled a rip tide.

Coastal Upland

The low-lying area landward of the beach that sometimes contains unconsolidated sediments.

The coastal upland is bounded by the hinterland (the higher-elevation areas dominated by bedrock and steeper slopes).

Environmental Valuation

Procedures for valuing changes in environmental goods and services, whether or not they are traded in markets, by measuring the changes in the consumer or producer surpluses associated with these environmental goods.

Refraction (of water waves)

The process by which the direction of a wave moving in shallow water at an angle to the contours is changed: the part of the wave advancing in shallower water moves more slowly than that part still advancing in deeper water, causing the wave crest to bend toward alignment with the underwater contours.

The bending of wave crests by currents.

Patch Reef

a mound like or flat-topped organic reef, generally less than 1 km across, frequently forming part of a larger reef complex.

Hydrography

The description and study of seas, lakes, rivers and other waters; the science of locating aids and dangers to navigation; the description of physical properties of the waters of a region.

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