Glossary of Terms
Sediment deposited inland of a beach by over wash processes. Water depth - distance between the seabed and the still water level.
The elevation of still water level relative to some datum.
The vertical distance between a crest and the preceding trough.
The horizontal distance between similar points on two successive waves measured perpendicularly to the crest.
The time for a wave crest to traverse a distance equal to one wavelength. The time for two successive wave crests to pass a fixed point.
The transmission of waves through water.
Diagram showing the long-term distribution of wave height and direction.
Super elevation of the water surface over normal surge elevation due to onshore mass transport of the water by wave action alone.
That part of an incident wave that is returned seaward when a wave impinges on a steep beach, barrier, or other reflecting surface.
Lands whose saturation with water is the dominant factor determining the nature of soil development and the types of plant and animal communities that live in the soil and on its surface (e.g. Mangrove forests).