Glossary of Terms

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a mound like or flat-topped organic reef, generally less than 1 km across, frequently forming part of a larger reef complex.

Beach material usually well-rounded and between about 4mm to 64mm diameter.

A beach or fillet of sand retained above the otherwise normal profile level by a submerged dike.

A groyne with openings or voids large enough to permit passage of appreciable quantities of littoral drift through the structure.

The zone extending downward from the ocean surface within which the light is sufficient to sustain photosynthesis. The depth of this layer varies with water clarity, time of year and cloud clover, but is about 100m in the open ocean.

  • It may be considered the depth to which all light is filtered out except for about one percent and may be calculated as about two and a half-times the depth of a secchi disk reading.

The science of deducing the physical dimensions of objects from measurements on images (usually photographs) of the objects.

An assemblage of photographs, each of which shows part of a region, put together in such a way that each point in the region appears once and only once in the assemblage, and scale variation is minimised.

A structure, ususally of open construction, extending out into the water from the shore, to serve as a landing place, recreational facility, etc., rather than to afford coastal protection or affect the movement of water. A term sometimes improperly applied to jetties.

A long, heavy timber or section of concrete or metal that is driven or jetted into the earth or seabed to serve as a support or protection.

For a plunging wave, the point at which the wave curls over and falls.

  • The final breaking point of the waves just before they rush up on the beach.

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